Restaurant Review: Osteria L’Angolo Del Silenzio

During our visit to Como, Alessandro and I dined at Osteria L’Angolo Del Silenzio, where the menu had a heavy fish focus. Slightly removed from the historic center of Como, the osteria is very unassuming from the street, but upon entering was moderately chic and full of patrons for the lunch hour. I use the word “chic” loosely, as many Italian food establishments shamelessly have an ambience reminiscent of (and probably last updated in) the ’80s.

Pesce Paradise

My first impression of Osteria L’Angolo Del Silenzio was positive. The restaurant itself was bustling when we arrived around 2:00PM, the service was attentive, and the menu diverse. Notably, the majority of offerings were seafood, but there were meat and vegetarian options as well.

We sipped on a half-carafe of vermentino, which is a slightly-sweet white typically derived from the island of Sardegna. The wine was above average and paired well with our meals, but was certainly not the best white wine I’ve ever had.

Moving on to the best thing we ate: Antipasto Misto di Mare Freddo. For the non-Italian speakers, that’s an appetizer sampler made up completely of cold fish. The antipasto included a unique shrimp salad in tomato cream sauce, salmon, octopus, tuna, and  trout crudos, an “American” style seafood salad with shredded fish rather than chunks of fish, a typical shellfish salad dressed with olive oil and herbs, a whole shrimp (cooked), among other things. Everything on the plate was fresh and flavorful; I enjoyed every second of my indulgence and wouldn’t have changed a thing about this dish.

On to the mains: I ordered a special, which was a variety of lake fish comparable to cod in a simple tomato and basil sauce served with grilled vegetables and a scoop of polenta flavored with squid ink.

My fish was extremely underwhelming in comparison to the appetizer. Everything on the plate was well-cooked, but lacked flavor or really anything that made it memorable. Especially for being a special, it should’ve packed more punch.

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Alessandro made a better choice and ordered tagliolini ai ricco di mare, or in layman’s terms, noodles with sea urchin. I don’t have a photo of this one, but in case you’re imagining a spiky purple crustacean over a plate of pasta, think again. The fish is removed from its outer shell prior to cooking and has the consistency of calamari rings. The sauce used in this particular dish was a light tomato cream. Although I didn’t try it myself, Alessandro described it as very good, but not excellent.

Finally, we arrive at dessert: peach panna cotta. Panna cotta, which translates to “cooked cream”, is an Italian dessert of sweetened cream thickened with gelatin and molded. Typically flavored with vanilla, this one was a more seasonal variety of peach served with a raspberry sauce and dusted with powdered sugar. While I haven’t tried an abundance of panna cotta in my life, I was very satisfied with this one. It was light, sweet, and refreshing – a perfect summer dessert.

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Overall Impressions:

  • Great for seafood lovers, as well as for those who aren’t
  • Removed from the touristic center of Como
  • Quality is fresh, but flavors leave something to be desired

The Verdict:

3-half-star

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